swingos - westlake, oh

Okay, I'll admit it - I walked into Swingos expecting to be underwhelmed. Their brunch buffet failed to impress me the first time I was there. And I can't even give that a fair review because I was expecting it to be of similar quality to Pier W (which was undergoing remodeling when I last went to Swingos). My party's experience at this Cleveland culinary mainstay was far from underwhelming and totally engaged us in flavor, presentation, and service.

The meal began with complimentary cod roe on crispy croutons - light and smooth with a daring garlic bite that served as the perfect starter for the noteworthy Caesar salad. Available for $18 for two as a substitute for the dinner salad included with all entrées, this classic is prepared tableside - the dressing carefully mixed in a wooden bowl and the croutons lightly fried in butter before being served warm over crisp romaine hearts. Heavy on crushed garlic, freshly-ground black pepper, and lemon, the aromas wafting across your table pale in comparison to the outstanding flavor. The portions were extremely generous - we had it prepared for three and split for four people and were still left with plates that would have made a light lunch.

Two members of our party enjoyed the Steak Romano: twin filet mignons grilled and lightly coated with garlic and herb breadcrumbs served with a cabernet reduction. Side dishes available were roasted redskin potatoes with Parmesan and rosemary, potatoes Lyonnaise, and steamed broccoli. I ordered the featured entrée which was similar to the Steak Romano - the same two breaded filets served with angel hair pasta in a wonderfully creamy pesto sauce with tomato and mushroom. It was garnished with caramelized red onion in a fried potato basket - a playful and eye-catching presentation. The beef was delicious though a few degrees overdone in my opinion; if you prefer your steak medium rare, I'd suggest you order it rare at Swingos. The pasta was smooth and subtle and an excellent pairing for the beef. As with the salad, portions were generous - each meal at $38 was enough to make us consider skipping dessert, though after we saw the selections we ended up regaining our resolve.

The wine list read more like an almanac - Swingos is internationally known for its expansive wine selection, and to highlight some of the notable vintages is beyond the scope of my review as well as my expertise. It suffices to say that any oenophile will find something that impresses. Our knowledgeable server suggested wine pairings for our meal selections, and we settled on splitting a bottle of their house Swingos Grand Tavern Pinot Noir. Made with Oregon grapes and bottled at Ohio's Grand River, it carried a slight alcohol tinge in its aroma, but was at once fruity and earthy. At a reasonable $30 a bottle, it was a fairly easy choice, and could pair well with any steak.

Because we enjoyed the tableside preparation of the Caesar salad, we were drawn to the desserts which were served in a similar manner; we selected the cherries jubilee. Delightfully sour cherries drenched in Grand Marnier and brandy, flambéed with Bacardi 151 and served over delicious vanilla ice cream. $18 bought a portion easily satisfying for three. The Quill Coffee also comes highly recommended - fine dark roast coffee with cream, Kahlúa, Baileys Irish Cream and amaretto. Even the plain coffee was an experience. It was served with Belgian chocolate shavings, cinnamon sticks and raw sugar to accent it as you wish.

The atmosphere was simple and pleasing for the most part. Even though the restaurant is right on Lake Erie, the view of the Cleveland skyline isn't nearly as good as Pier W (just on the other side of the condominium complex). The music was almost too pop for the atmosphere. Some smooth jazz or even piano would have been very welcome, but we actually heard a Red Hot Chili Peppers song. Honestly, a minor complaint considering the excellence of the food and service. The entire meal was paced extremely well. The entrées came out after the salad had just enough time to settle, and we enjoyed our coffee beverages for about fifteen minutes before our dessert was made. Overall, our visit was about two and a half hours of relaxed dining.

The Swingos name has been a fixture on the Greater Cleveland restaurant scene for years and years and its easy to see why. Their dedication to excellent preparation of culinary classics is evident in everything on the menu, and you could go a lifetime without tasting everything on their wine list. With a menu ranging from chicken to veal to almost a dozen seafood choices, their entertaining tableside preparations and the staff's expertise and friendliness, Swingos is a dining classic not to be missed.